Details of Design & Pattern Making In Shirt Manufacturing Process

1. Design Concept

• Shirt Type: The Cuban collar shirt is known for its casual, relaxed style, featuring an open, spread collar with no top button or stand, and a loose fit. It’s often associated with tropical and summer wear.
• Half-Sleeve Design: The half sleeves add to its laid-back aesthetic, making it comfortable and breathable, perfect for warm climates. The length of the sleeves typically ends just above the elbow.
• Fit: Cuban collar shirts usually have a boxy, slightly oversized fit compared to regular dress shirts, allowing for easy movement and comfort.

2. Pattern Making

Pattern making is the process of translating the shirt’s design into actual templates, which are used to cut the fabric pieces.

Essential Components for a Half-Sleeve Cuban Collar Shirt:

1. Front Bodice:

   • The front part of the shirt, typically cut in two symmetrical pieces (right and left).
   • Features include a V-shaped neckline to accommodate the Cuban collar, and a button placket running down the center front.
   • The hemline may be straight or slightly curved, depending on the desired style.
   • The width and length of the front bodice are measured according to the shirt’s intended fit, which is slightly looser for Cuban shirts.

2. Back Bodice:

   • A single piece that forms the back of the shirt.
   • The back typically has a yoke at the top, which provides structure and shape to the shirt around the shoulders.
   • It may also feature a pleat at the center or side for added ease of movement.

3. Sleeves:

   • For half sleeves, the pattern is designed to cover the upper arm, stopping just above the elbow.
   • The sleeve pattern is typically slightly wider than a regular shirt sleeve, in keeping with the looser fit of the Cuban collar style.
   • A hem allowance is added to the end of the sleeve for a clean finish.

4. Cuban Collar:

   • The key feature of this shirt, the Cuban collar is a spread collar that lies flat against the shirt.
   • The collar pattern consists of two parts: the collar and facing. The collar pattern is usually wider and shorter than traditional shirt collars to create the open-neck look.
   • No collar stand is required, which gives the shirt its unique relaxed look.

5. Button Placket:

   • The button placket is sewn onto the front bodice. It includes space for buttonholes and overlaps the shirt when buttoned.
   • The pattern for the placket is designed to ensure neat alignment of buttons, typically spaced evenly down the center.

6. Pocket (Optional):

   • A patch pocket can be added to one side of the chest for added style and functionality. The pocket is usually square and sewn onto the left or right side.

Steps in Pattern Making:

1. Measurements & Drafting:

   • Accurate body measurements are taken, including chest, shoulder width, waist, hip, sleeve length, and neck circumference.
   • Using these measurements, a basic block or template for the shirt is drafted. This involves sketching each part (front, back, sleeve, collar) to the specific dimensions required.
   • Allowances for seams (typically 1-1.5 cm) and hems (2-3 cm) are added to ensure proper sewing.

2. Modifications for Cuban Collar:

   • The neckline is modified into a V-shape, with extra width to allow the Cuban collar to sit flat.
   • The pattern for the collar is drafted as a separate piece, shaped to fit the neckline and allow for the shirt’s open, casual look.

3. Sleeve Adjustments:

   • For half-sleeve designs, the length is reduced, and the sleeve is drafted to be slightly wider than a regular shirt for a more relaxed fit.
   • Hem allowances are added to ensure the sleeve ends are neat after sewing.

4. Pattern Grading:

   • Once the base pattern is complete, it is graded to different sizes (S, M, L, etc.). This ensures the design is scalable while maintaining proportions across different sizes.
   • Each size will have its own set of pattern pieces, ensuring a consistent fit regardless of the shirt’s size.

5. Prototype Creation:

   • A prototype or sample shirt is created using the patterns. This allows the designer to test the fit, proportions, and overall look of the shirt.
   • Any adjustments needed (e.g., sleeve width, collar fit) are made at this stage, and the patterns are updated accordingly.

3. Finalization & Testing

• Once the pattern is perfected, it’s finalized and used for production.
• A test run of the shirt is made, using the final pattern to ensure all elements come together smoothly. Fit, collar placement, and sleeve length are critically evaluated to ensure the shirt meets design expectations.

By the end of this process, you have a full set of patterns ready for mass production, ensuring consistency and quality in each half-sleeve Cuban collar shirt made under your Regal Rarities brand.